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A Life on the Waves |
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Monday, July 23, 2007
A Life on the Waves
If
there is one understated yet easily accessible pleasure to be enjoyed in
beautiful Boracay, it would have to be paraw sailing. These colourful
little boats are a well loved part of the island experience, and long
before the first tourist set weary foot on the gleaming sands of White
Beach, they have been an integral part of the scenery. Few tropical
islands have such an evocative symbol as the paraw, and most guidebooks
and brochures on the subject of Boracay contain that classic image of
paraws sailing into the golden sunset.
A paraw is a native-style outrigger sailing boat constructed from wood and
bamboo, and is comprised of a single hull flanked by two outriggers for
stability. They are not, as they are commonly misnamed, a catamaran, a
trimaran, or a hobie cat! The design of these sturdy little sailboats can
be traced back to those vessels which first carried settlers to the
Visayan region from Borneo in the early 1200's, and to this day this
particular style of boat can only be seen around a few islands in the
Western Visayas.
Prior to the onslaught of tourism, paraws were commonly used for fishing,
or to facilitate travel and trade between islands, but in recent years,
enterprising local sailors commonly use them for sightseeing tours around
the numerous coves and beauty spots, and many visitors much prefer this
quiet, wind-driven and environmentally friendly method of transportation
as an alternative to the noisy banca boat rides. They are enormous fun to
sail and due to the absence of a deep keel, have the advantage of being
able to moor right on the shoreline - perfect for beach hopping. The
yearly paraw regatta, held during high season, is a colourful and lively
spectacle, and while cash prizes are on offer, many compete for the sheer
thrill and enjoyment of the race itself.
A
paraw ride can be a calm and tranquil experience, enjoyed with a bottle of
wine at sunset, a means to visit deserted beaches and snorkel sites, or,
during windy weather, an exhilarating (if rather wet) way to ride the
waves at high speed. A crew of two is usual (a skipper and a balancer) and
most paraws can accomodate 4 - 6 passengers comfortably.
The large triangular sails are often used to showcase local artwork, and
unique tribal designs, geckos, fish and a variety of funky murals can be
seen adorning these photogenic floating canvasses. Sadly (and to the
abject horror of many tourists and Boracay purists) corporate logos have
also made their way onto the sails, but thankfully many boatmen still
insist on keeping the individuality of their boats intact, and refuse to
display such advertisements.
It is easy to see from the sunny and carefree disposition of most paraw
skippers just how much they enjoy their work. Take the friendly and upbeat
Captain Joey, for example, skipper of "Red Pirates", one of Boracay's most
well known sailing boats, and owner of the eclectic Pirates Pub. "Sailing
is so relaxing. You don't have to think - you just get back to nature.
It's a pure and positive energy" he enthuses. "When you are sailing, it's
like a therapy". And he should know. Joey has been cruising these waters
for eighteen years and knows all the island's best kept secrets, including
remote caves and snorkel sites.
Many foreigners have also been bitten by the paraw sailing bug, and
British-born artist David Parker recalls, "I spent a long time sitting on
Boracay's white sand watching the majestic outrigger sailing boats before
actually sailing on one. Once initiated, it became a healthy habit, and my
girlfriend and I bought a class A racing paraw, the "Red Rooster". The
boat was the Ferarri of the island, painted bright yellow, and was our
daily and nightly transport to the clubs and bars along the beachfront."
Dave's enthusiasm for paraw sailing and genuine affection for these
unusual little boats is obvious. He continues, "The foreigners who had
paraws were not lazy Sunday sailors. They raced - even if there was no
competition. Purely the need for speed. Paraws are not slow (Red Rooster
was clocked doing more than twenty-two knots), but they can be, and they
are extremely sensitive. I was once told by a yachtsman who was on his
second solo circumnavigation of the globe and had stopped off in Boracay
that, "if you can sail one of these, you can sail anything!" If you like
freedom, flying, driving in open-topped sportscars or riding a classic
motorcycle on a beautiful summers day, do not miss out on sailing a paraw
in Boracay." With imaginitive names such as "Wind Song", "Frankie Baby",
"Sugar Brown Reggae", "Satisfaction" and "Red Pirates", many of these
boats are instantly recognisable, and Boracay regulars often have their
own personal favourite paraw - and crew.
Here's hoping that these atmospheric little boats (and the cheerful,
free-spirited guys who sail them) remain a part of Boracay life for many
years to come - for island life surely wouldn't be the same without them. |
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